Serpents by the Maine Sea Shore

This story begins in another time and perhaps another place. An oceanside village with picturesque beauty. A hardworking community populated with people who make their living from what the sea provides. All of them built and shaped this country for the good... and the bad. Some of them Apples in the Garden, and others the Serpents.

  Out the backdoor of the cozy village was Green Mountain (as it was called at the time). Through the front door was the calm Frenchman Bay, named for the French explorer Samuel de Champlain in the 1600s. In between is the village of Eden. The sea offered bountiful fishing, and lumber from neighboring forests supplied the shipbuilding industry. 

    Walking through the streets, one could see businesses lining the streets. The residents, as tough as the mountains, making their way through harsh winters and the long days of work in the summer. Much like the biblical Garden of Eden, the local Adam and Eve were providing for their families and there were the Serpents among them. It was common to see out-of-place family members of America's royalty who would be better suited for the streets of New York City or Boston. 

    Looking down the street towards the "summer cottages," an area would become known as Millionaire's Row. A young woman strides down the cobblestone walkway. A morning New England spring rain has muddied the streets. The maiden is dressed in the finest attire for the era. Was she going to the market to see what these recent ships have brought in? Was she meeting friends? Nonetheless, bouncing without a care in the world. Her path crosses villagers struggling to make ends meet. A young child running and playing in front of her falls on the uneven street and bloodied her lip. Does she bother to offer a handkerchief? She has many. Nope. A moment later, she comes upon an old lady hobbling in the opposite direction. Does she offer the elder dry passage around a muddy puddle? Nope. Instead, she motions to the lady to step her worn-out shoes into the muddy water. Serpent.

    Passing by one "summer cottage," a young girl playing in the yard with her nanny. She was running around laughing playing a lively game of tag. Stopping for a moment to watch the child's excitement, she noticed my observance and spun her pigtails around. She gave an ugly face and then stuck her tongue out. Serpent.

Stepping into History at Fort Adams, RI: Coastal Views, Cannons, and Quiet Charm

If you're a history buff, a fan of coastal breezes, or just someone who enjoys discovering unique corners of the Northeast, let me introduce you to Fort Adams State Park in Newport, Rhode Island. It’s the kind of place where the past feels surprisingly present—you’re walking through tunnels and ramparts once guarded by soldiers, with the ocean just a stone’s throw away.

On a recent weekend road trip, I spent a day exploring Fort Adams and the surrounding parkland. I left with windswept hair, a full camera roll, and a deeper appreciation for New England’s layered past. This destination isn’t flashy or overcrowded—which is exactly why it’s worth visiting.

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Top Activities and Attractions

1. Tour the Fort

The crown jewel here is, of course, Fort Adams itself—an enormous coastal fortification dating back to the early 1800s. You can explore the outside grounds for free, but guided tours are where the magic happens. They take you through underground tunnels, officers’ quarters, and scenic overlooks with views of Narragansett Bay.

• Admission: Around $15 for adults

• Tip: Take the tour earlier in the day; the fort can get breezy and chilly by afternoon, even in summer.

2. The Bay Walk

This 2.5-mile loop around the park offers some of the best views in Newport. You’ll see sailboats, bridges, and the mouth of the harbor—all while enjoying a peaceful, mostly flat trail.

• Best Time: Sunset is stunning here. Bring a light jacket—it cools down quickly near the water.

3. Newport Jazz & Folk Festivals

If your timing is right, Fort Adams becomes the epicenter of iconic music festivals each summer. The Newport Folk Festival and Newport Jazz Festival draw big names but maintain a chill, seaside vibe. Even if you're not attending, the energy in the area is electric during these weekends.

4. Sailing or Kayaking from the Harbor

Just outside the fort area, you’ll find opportunities to rent kayaks or hop on a sailing tour. There’s something poetic about drifting past the very fort that once protected these waters.

5. Bring a Picnic or Chill on the Lawn

Don’t underestimate the joy of just relaxing with a view. The expansive lawn is perfect for a picnic, flying a kite, or simply reading a book with the waves in the background.

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Local History and Interesting Facts

• Fort Adams is the largest coastal fortification in the United States. Construction began in 1824, and it was designed to protect Narragansett Bay during a time when the U.S. feared coastal attacks.

• The site actually hosted an earlier fort during the Revolutionary War, making it one of the most layered historical sites in New England.

• Fort Adams never fired a shot in combat, but it was a training site during multiple American wars, housing up to 2,400 troops during its peak use.

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Where to Eat / Drink

You won’t find much food inside the park, so head into downtown Newport (just a 5–10 minute drive) for great eats. A couple of standout spots:

• The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar – Upscale coastal dining with harbor views. The bag of doughnuts (lobster fritters) is a must.

• Mission Burger – A casual spot with killer burgers and craft sodas, perfect after a long walk around the fort.

• Belle’s Café (inside Newport Shipyard) – A locals’ favorite for breakfast or lunch with marina views.

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Why It’s a Great Weekend Trip

Fort Adams is ideal for a weekend escape because it offers a blend of history, nature, and coastal charm without overwhelming crowds. It’s also incredibly walkable, affordable, and pairs perfectly with the rest of Newport’s attractions.

Pro Tip: Arrive Friday evening, stay in one of Newport’s charming inns or budget-friendly hotels on the outskirts, and devote Saturday to Fort Adams and the park. Pack a picnic, wear comfy shoes, and definitely bring your camera.

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Final Thoughts

Fort Adams is one of those spots that sneaks up on you—beautiful, quiet, and full of stories waiting to be discovered. It’s not just a fort, but a full experience: the sea breeze, the stone corridors, the cannon views, and the echoes of history all rolled into one unforgettable visit.

Have you been to Fort Adams or explored other coastal forts? Share your favorite hidden-history destinations—I’m always looking for the next road warrior-worthy spot!

Stepping into the Past at The Arcade in Providence, RI — Or Trying To

If you’re on the hunt for things to do in Providence, Rhode Island, chances are you’ve seen The Arcade pop up in guides and Google searches. Known as the oldest indoor shopping mall in America, it’s a place that once held a special kind of charm—ornate architecture, tucked-away local shops, and a sense of stepping back in time.

But on my most recent visit, that magic felt... lost.

Don’t get me wrong—The Arcade is still standing proudly in downtown Providence. It’s just not the same. The remodel, sleek and polished as it may be, seems to have swept away all the grit, nostalgia, and soul that used to make it a gem for travelers like me who crave history and character over modern shine.

Let me show you what I discovered.

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Top Activities and Attractions in Providence, RI

Providence is a small city that packs a surprising punch for curious travelers. If you’re planning a weekend trip or a quick stop along a New England road trip, here are a few highlights that pair well with a visit to The Arcade:

• Walk the East Side: Home to Brown University and RISD, the College Hill area oozes historic charm. Cobblestone streets, colonial homes, and ivy-covered buildings are everywhere.

• Visit the RISD Museum: One of the best-kept secrets in Rhode Island—stunning art collections in an intimate, thoughtfully curated setting.

• WaterFire (Seasonal): If you’re visiting between May and November, don’t miss the signature WaterFire art installation lighting up the rivers downtown.

I had big hopes that The Arcade would round out my historical-themed Providence visit. After all, a place that opened in 1828 should have stories to tell. What I found instead was a version of The Arcade that felt more like a boutique office building with a few modern shops sprinkled in.

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A Quick Look Back: The Arcade’s Legacy

Did you know?
The Arcade was the first indoor shopping mall in the United States, opening nearly two centuries ago. Its Greek Revival architecture and grand stone columns made it a landmark almost immediately. It used to house quirky gift shops, local bookstores, and cozy cafes where you could spend an hour sipping coffee under sunbeams filtered through iron-framed skylights.

Back then, walking into The Arcade felt like discovering a time capsule—layers of history under every creaky floorboard and storefront sign.

That version is mostly gone now.

The recent remodel aimed to preserve the structure, and to be fair, the bones are still beautiful. But the tenants? Almost entirely different. Many of the independent shops have been replaced with sleek, minimalist retail spaces and micro-lofts. It’s clean, yes—but the atmosphere has changed.

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Where to Eat and Drink Near The Arcade

Even if the building left me nostalgic for its past, downtown Providence still delivers on flavor. A few must-try spots within walking distance:

• Bolt Coffee (inside The Arcade): One of the few holdovers from before the remodel. Still a good place to grab a solid espresso and people-watch.

• Gracie’s: A farm-to-table gem a few blocks away—perfect for a slow, thoughtful dinner.

• Ellie’s: French bakery vibes and the best pastries I’ve had in Providence. Great for breakfast or a quick midday bite.

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Hidden Gems and Insider Tips

If you, like me, enjoy destinations where history seeps from the walls, here are a few other stops in Providence that still feel delightfully old-school:

• The Providence Athenaeum: A dreamy library that looks like it belongs in a Gothic novel—Edgar Allan Poe even visited here.

• Benefit Street’s “Mile of History”: One of the most beautiful streets in America, lined with preserved colonial homes and gas lamps.

• The Arcade’s Balcony Level: Still open to the public, and a quieter space to appreciate the architecture—even if the charm is a little more curated now.

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Final Thoughts: A Modern Mall in a Historic Shell

Would I recommend visiting The Arcade in Providence?
Yes—with expectations managed.

If you’ve never been before, it’s still worth a short visit to admire the structure and check out a shop or two. But if you, like me, remember the old Arcade, prepare for a bit of heartache. The remodel, while polished and practical, seems to have missed what made the place so special: the soul, the stories, the little surprises around every corner.

Still, that’s part of what makes travel meaningful—the chance to reflect, to remember, and to share stories that others might relate to.

Have you been to The Arcade recently? Did it feel different to you too?
Drop a comment or connect on social—I’d love to hear your take.